Field wire on alt hook up, hook up wire
As described above, Im running a GM alternator with little customization. By varying the on-off time, the correct average field current for proper system voltage control is obtained. The other wire from the A terminal that goes up through the harness is probably where power is coming from.
The trick is to find out which one is which, and of course, what it does.
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So when you turn the ignition on, the ALT light should go on, then when the car is running, the ALT light should go off. The use of the "P", "F", and "S" terminals is optional.
The flirty girl sound effect name is the "exciter field tap", has something to do with the actual science of the electronics, where there is a magnetic field which is excited, etc etc.
The higher the spin, the closer to full amp capacity it could sink current. And it was all just plug and play.
As ya can see it even refers ya to these connections. My '79 has a 2-connector pigtail hanging from the firewall near the heater box; this used to connect to the stock carburetor.
Actually if you look really closely, the ALT light will have a tiny glow to it, because technically, its not It's also protected in the fuse panel. But not hot to touch.
In the old days, it was a fuseable link, nowadays, its just a quick-blow fuse. Take a quick look at the first diagram in this post, it shows a generic diagram from a Ford shop manual: My case gets warm after a 1 hr drive on the interstate to work or home.
Hope this helps hollar if ya figure it out Nowadays, alternators charge at Another interesting use of the field is that it can tell you that the alternator is actually working properly by being hooked to the alternator light on the dash.
The "S" terminal may be connected externally to a voltage, such as battery voltage, to sense the voltage to be controlled.
Cs-144 field wire ???
Why does it do this? The older alternators even needed a kick-start to begin charging, so you need to get the RPMS above before it did anything. Where the regulator is identified with an "I" marking on the regulator case, the circuit in Figure 3A applies.
The "I" terminal may be connected directly to the switch, or through a resistor.
Managing this product is simple...
Something most miss is that chev division is nice enuff to LABLE the connections for the alt on the plugs for us. The only critical detail of the BATT wire is that it needs safety protection. Direct quote from service manual in link i posted above page The output wire to the battery positive, and an "L" terminal wire connected to the charge indicator bulb, or to the resistor, or to both.
I use the latter of the two and I recommend you do the same. The above alternator is from a 90s Land Rover application.
I drive it daily and have checked the case daily still unsure about the bearings from the swap. A fuseable link works like a fuse, except its a wire that can take short spikes of overcharging, but remains intact unless a prolonged overcharging burns it.
Alternator technology has improved over the years, but in the old days the current that BATT could sink depended on the speed with which it was spinning. The "I" circuit may be used with or without the "L" circuit; that is, with or without anything connected to the "L" circuit.
When the car is running, it turns into a high frequency square wave, so the ALT light sees a square wave, which has an RMS value near So its supposed to be hooked up the most electrically distant part of your car to let the alternator know if it should be upping the current to compensate.
Unlike other regulators, this regulator switches the field current on and off at a fixed frequency of about cycles per second.
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Im running an oven fuse, rated at 30Amps, and Ive never had a problem. If the charge indicator is on with the engine running a charging system defect is indicated. Another reason why its hooked up to the ignition switch, is that its a drain on the battery.
I don't remember which color was which, but you can easily check with the engine OFF and the key in RUN and test which one has 12 volts on it. One signal connects to the stator terminal of the alternator, and went to the factory choke.
The regulator is temperature-compensated; that is, it's voltage setting varies with temperature. The vehicle circuit can be identified, Figure 3 or Figure 3A, by observing the terminal marking on the regulator, which will be either an "F" Figure 3 or "I" Figure 3A.
A basic wiring circuit is shown Figure 3. It's un-fused and hot at all times. The "P" terminal is connected to the stator, and may be connected externally to a tachometer or other device. Its always hooked up to the ignition, so when you turn off the ignition, you also turn off the alternator from charging.
The charge indicator works in much the same way as on other charging systems-the indicator lights when the switch is closed, and then goes out when the engine is running. Not a bad thing if other systems in your car, like amplifiers, or fuel pumps dont mind getting a little shy of Its a square voltage pattern, going between 0V and For complete circuit, reference must be made to the vehicle manufacturer's wiring diagrams.
A quick blow fuse, as is common today, blows with the slightest hint of over-current. Or, you could take a stroll through the local scrap yard and just see what would fit, thats what I did.
That will tell you if it ends up being connected, without having to peel back your harness. To make sure, disconnect the battery negative cable first, positive second as always and test for continuity between the inside of that little plug coming off the A terminal, and the positive battery cable.
The other is hot-in-RUN and powered the original idle stop solenoid. When the car is off, its stuck at 0V, which is why the ALT light goes on.
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